Did you know that Sao Paolo is the helipad capital of the world? Every major person here travels via helicopter! Isn’t that crazy. There’s a mall here, Daslu, and Lonely Planet says it’s forbidden to get there by walking and arriving by taxi is a major embarrassment. The proper way to arrive is through a helicopter!
So obviously we’re no longer spending $1 for 20 minute taxi rides and gone is our $15/day allowance for eating. Sao Paolo is crazy expensive. So for tours, we did none. We just walked around the city. Actually the most exciting thing we did was watch Transformers! Yeay!
As you can see, our pit stops through Brazil were city breaks. Even though Brazil is famous for the Amazon Rain Forest, we decided to do that kind of tour on a different time as it’s a tour that requires trekking for a minimum of 2 weeks for maximum appreciation.
And oh, before I start blogging about Argentina, yeah, of course we made it to Daslu = )
Saturday, July 25, 2009
July 15-18: São Paulo
July 11-15: Rio de Janeiro
We’re in RIO!!!
We’re in a CITY!!!
After 7 weeks of traveling, it definitely feels nice to be in familiar urban surroundings. Even better, we’re staying at Copacobana. “At the Copa, Copacobana, music and passion are always the fashion, at the Copa, they fell in love”. Sorry, I can’t help myself from getting all Barry Manilow as this is the famous beach that inspired that song. *hehe*
Copacobana is like a cross between Ala Moana (Oahu) and Ocean Drive (Miami) except of course it has the Brazil factor which means in the not too far distance are islands and mountains covered in green. Apart from the beach scene, which was always busy with locals, there was also the food scene and OMG. After just 2 hours in the city, we hit up a churrascaria, and 2 hours after that, our pores started oozing meat. We had the green light on for meat the entire time! After awhile, the servers started joking with us re: how much we were eating. After stuffing ourselves with so much meat, you’d think that we’d give our stomach a break but nope. Just a day and a half later, we found ourselves in another churrascaria. The good thing though was we were there for lunch so at least we had a half day to walk it off. And my goodness, did we need that afternoon! The 2nd place was bigger and better and we got to try other meats too like ostrich, goat and I think rabbit also. The food was sooo good, the caipirinha excellent, the juice made of 100% real mangos and with views of the harbor and Sugarloaf Mountain, we felt this restaurant was a destination by itself = )
Ok so apart from eating, we actually did make it out to see the city. We walked along the beaches of Copacobana, Ipanema and Leblon. We also took in a game of futevolei which is like volleyball except you don’t use hands, which makes it similar to soccer. Check out the video on Flickr (Will be posted soon). It’s amazing and definitely something Artesia cong. should try next Tuesday (in between volleyball Mondays and soccer Wednesdays).
A visit to Rio is also not complete without seeing Cristo Redentor, the famous figure of Christ overlooking the city. For a non touristy month, this place was chocked full of people doing the outstretched arms pose. And of course as tourists, we did the same thing (except we took a shower in the morning which sooo many people obviously did not do!). We also went to Pão de Açúcar / Sugarloaf Mountain at night, so as to get a view of the city from a different perspective.
On our last and final day, we got some bummy news: Our hang-gliding appt at 1 got cancelled because of windy weather. *boohoo*
July 9: WMDR
WMDR as in The World’s Most Dangerous Road, not Weapons of Mass Destruction (we’ll try that in Cambodia! *lol*).
Today was all about biking downhill through muddy, gravelly and potholly roads. We had world class mountain bikes and the whole day was an adrenaline rush. The road we biked on was about 10 feet wide, curvy w/ no railings and had a vertical drop of 90 feet. The road is also still used by the locals (though not very much anymore) and it was an amusing game calculating when to pass the cars given the curves and the potholes.
Wednesday, July 22, 2009
July 8 -10: Civilization La Paz
July 4 – 7 – Southwest Circuit: Salar de Uyuni, San Pedro de Quemes, Ojo de Perdiz
After 12 very long hours on Bolivia’s laughably marketed “premier first class luxury bus company,” we finally made it to Uyuni where the daytime temperature had finally warmed to 5 degrees Fahrenheit. We met our guide Luis who was friendly but spoke not a lick of English.
Our 1st stop of the tour was at a salt factory in Colchani where 2000- 9000 kg of salt is packaged each day. The numbers are impressive considering the space this all happens in is the same size as our 1st floor apartment.
After this stop, we entered the blinding white beauty of the Salar de Uyuni salt dessert. The absolute whiteness of the place made this the most surreal 4wd tour we’ve ever taken. The Salar is definitely something different and definitely something to put on a destination list.
Some of our other stops on the Salar include Isla Incahuasi which is an island full of cactuses that are hundreds of years old. We also went to see the Coquesa Mummies which are 6 mummies inside a small, dark, rock cave. These mummies are on a very poorly marked trail and are not on a lot of tourist agendas so seeing them in their natural environment was freaky and claustrophobic. The cave also relies on natural sunlight so that made it a little scary as we arrived in the late afternoon when the sun was coming down on the horizon. Another similar stop was the Galaxy Cave and the Chullpas cemetery. The Galaxy Cave is a “petrified stromatolite reserve” ie, a cave with cool rock formations. The Chullpas cemetery was discovered by two farmers just a couple of years ago and contains the burial grounds of families that lived in the area hundreds of years ago. The bones have petrified into their surroundings and are just there for you to see. Like the Coquesa Mummies, these skeletons aren’t enclosed in a sterile glass box inside a museum so it’s a somewhat spooky experience seeing them in their original setting.
On our 3rd day, I got car crazy driving through the vast expanse of the dessert and spent about 2 hours annoying Andrew and Luis by singing along with the love songs on the tape (see flickr videos). This day was actually forgettable as all we saw were lakes and another volcano spewing smoke in the background. What was really amazing though was seeing an Andean fox in the wild. Neither of us had ever seen a fox in the wild and it was a nice treat to see one.
We experienced the bitter cold of winter on our 4th and last day of the tour. At -30C, the temperature was the coldest we’ve ever experienced. At 12 the weather was still in the negative so we decided to opt out of swimming in the Hot Geyser Springs of Polque. We did however get out of the car to take pictures of the herd of pink flamingos on Laguna Colorado. This was an unexpected sight as usually, flamingos migrate away during the winter season. Other sights of interest were Laguna Verde which was not very green because it was partly frozen, the Arbol de Piedro, which is a rock that looks like a tree, and Dessert Dali which is a dessert with huge rocks strewn about. From the distance, the view looks like a painting from Salvador Dali’s mind.
Following this tour, we got back to Uyuni where we had another 12 long and bumpy traveling hours ahead of us.
July 3 - The long journey to Bolivia
Anyways, enough complaining b/c we made it to our hotel (to drop off luggage in La Paz) safe and sound. Everyone we’ve met has cautioned us against pick pockets and corrupt immigration/customs officials at the airport. Good thing the only craziness that met us at the airport were the lines galore. For example: getting an entry stamp on my passport = 4 lines, getting our luggages = 3 lines. We’ve always thought nothing can beat India but La Paz definitely takes top rank for crazy and chaotic.
July 2 - Oh oh
We had an extra day in Cuzco and the possibilities before us we’re endless. There was the art scene at San Blas, Inca ruins at the Sacred Valley, and maybe even some river rafting. However, in our rush to be the first to get to Machu Picchu yesterday, I sprained my ankle on the Inca Trail and we spent the last of our beautiful sunny day in Cuzco in a clinic. After getting my foot x-rayed by a machine from the 80’s, I got a nice shot from a nice long needle to ease the pain from my watermelon of an ankle. I then spent the rest of the day knocked out in our hostal.
Wednesday, July 15, 2009
Part 4 of 4: July 1: Machu Picchu
Our group woke up at 3am and was the 1st group to reach the entrance gate of the final trail leading to Machu Picchu. The gate opened at 5:30A and after a 40 minute walk and a couple of 2 footer steps, we made it to the Sun Gate where we got our first glimpse of Machu Picchu. Since pictures speak a thousand words, check out our gallery. Apart from that, the only other comment I can make to give the site justice is that you have to make it there yourself. It really was an unforgettable trip and one that I’m glad Andrew and I we’re able to do.
Sunday, July 12, 2009
Part 3 of 4: June 30: Winay Huayna
Forget hiking. We’d had a hard 2 days of that so today all we did was pleasantly walked, ok hobbled (and shivered) our way to our 3rd pit stop at Winay Huayna. Here we hiked up another easy pass and saw the back of Winay Picchu, the tall mountain that rises above Machu Picchu in every postcard. While the thought of how close we finally were was fantastic, what was really truly absolutely fabulous about this day were the HOT SHOWERS! Yup that’s right, there are NO showers until you’ve reached the 3rd campground! And although the showers looked like the ones from 5th grade camp, there is no better treat than showering off all the sweat and grime and stink of a 3 day hike. Well, hmm, I take that back as the popcorn after the shower was pretty great. Can you tell Andrew and I loved our popcorn??? *hehe*
Part 2 of 4: June 29: Dead Woman’s Pass
This day was all about climbing, climbing and more climbing. Our first upward climb was to the Dead Woman’s Pass which rises to 4200m. What should only take 3 hours took me a lil more than 4 hours to complete with the last hour literally being only a 100m ascent. The altitude was a killer and it was a good thing Andrew wasn’t affected because without him, I would’ve asked one of the porters to piggy back me the rest of the way up!
Once we did make it up, we were treated to some really spectacular views of the valley below on one side and the cloud forest on the other. After resting though, what did we do next? Go down some 1800 steps on the back face of the same mountain. And once we had gotten down, what did we do next? Go up the 2nd Pass at 4000m, so that once we reached the top, we could then go down on the back face. Needless to say, the day was extremely long and more than once I wondered why we had paid to torture ourselves when we could have easily gotten to Machu Piccu by train/bus. The answer of course lay in the yummy buttery popcorn treat we got at the end of our hiking day, something day trippers don’t get to taste at all!
June 28-July 1, 2009: Inca Trial, oops, I meant Inca Trail
Part 1 of 4: June 28: Wayllabamba to Ayapato
We started the day bright and early at 5am, and promptly fell asleep on the 2 hour bus ride to KM 82 where the Inca trail starts. Our group was relatively small comprising of our guide, Ramero, Andrew and I, and Catherine, a 62 year old female. Also joining us were Llama Path’s Red Army of 7 porters and 1 cook who would be carrying our tents, sleeping bags, foam mattresses, personal effects, seats, food, propane tank, pots and pans, and everything else needed on our ‘luxury camping/trekking’ 4 day adventure to Macchu Picchu.
Today’s hike would take us to Wayllabamba and Ayapato. To enter the trail, we first registered at the registration office where our passport got a Macchu Picchu stamp! Way cool! During the first 20 minutes of the trail however, Andrew and I had déjà vu Belize as we were swarmed with mosquitoes. We quickly applied deet and while that was effective in preventing flies from landing and biting us, it didn’t prevent the buggers from hovering close and forming a wall around us. Anyhow as Ramero said (over and over), you’re on an adventure!
Anyhow, our hike today was hot but relatively easy. On the way to our lunch site at Wayllabamba we saw the first of many Inca sites: Llactapata. Andrew and I also spent most of the hike by ourselves as we outpaced Catherine and Ramero. We spent our first night camping out at Ayapato. It was the first time either of us had been camping in a long while so it was a bit of an experience reliving sleeping at tents. As I said though, this trek was ‘luxury camping’ because once we arrived at the site, the porters had set up our tents and the cook had tea and popcorn ready for us. We also had a 3 course dinner and enjoyed a lovely night surrounded by the millions of stars above.
June 25-July 3, 2009: Cuzco
If only I knew how to wax poetic about this beautiful city. Once covered in gold as the foremost capital of the Inca empire, Cuzco has managed to retain its charm and is quite simply the most beautiful city Andrew and I have ever been to. Like Cuenca, Cuzco is covered with narrow cobblestone streets and massive Inca walls form the foundation of modern buildings. The Plaza de Armas is grand, green, airy and more importantly, a safe place to enjoy the sun and while away the day sitting and people watching. Restaurants all around the Plaza have balconies and it was in one of these balconies that Andrew and I first had a truly relaxing afternoon enjoying our Pisco Sours and laughing silly (because we can be so terribly rude) at the rainbow colored Inca flags that filled the Plaza and looked just like gay pride flags.
Cuzco also has amazing food! Chief among them is McDonalds!!! Andrew and I ate there twice and I cannot tell you just how fantastic a Big Mac, Double Quarter Pounders with Cheese and Fries can satisfy cravings in just the right way! And oh yeah, we’ve also had some amazing alpaca stew and yes llama steak is fantastic but talking about eating those cute buggers just sounds really cruel! So . . . yeah McDonald’s Fries, L-O-V-E them!!!
Another thing we loved was having dinner with Rick & Deanna. Our travel plans crossed for a night and it was fantastic exchanging stories with close friends in a restaurant far away from home. So, to everyone out there, again we beg, meet us up somewhere!!!
June 23-25, 2009: Arequipa & the Colca Canyon
Flying Condor, originally uploaded by Andrew & Yvette's world travel.
Arequipa was a bit of a disappointment. Our guidebook labeled the city as “irresistibly sexy for the grand colonial buildings made of an off white volcanic rock called sillar that dazzles in the sun”. Those buildings however have either been demolished and/or graffitied. Still cool though was the Museo Santuary where Juanita the Frozen Ice Princess is housed. Juanita is the name given to the frozen body of an Inca maiden sacrificed on the summit of Mt. Ampato 500 years ago.
While here, we also took a 2 day tour to see the Canon del Colca (Colca Canyon) which is the site of the world’s 2nd deepest canyon at 3191m. The deepest canyon in the world though is not at Grand Canyon, it’s at Canon del Cotahuasi which was 3 bumpy hours away (didn’t get to see). These 2 canyons are more than twice as deep as the ones in Grand Canyon so we were definitely encouraged to stay away from the edge.
Another cool thing hiking through the Canon was the Cruz del Condor viewpoint where Andean Condors aplenty swept low over our heads. It was a mesmerizing scene, heightened by the 1200m drop to the river below and the sight of Volcan Mismi reaching over 3000m above the canyon floor on the other side of the ravine.
Thursday, July 2, 2009
June 21-22, 2009: Nasca Lines
The Nasca Lines are a series of straight lines and geographic figures etched into the desert below. You fly in a Cessna for 30 minutes to see them and you do a 7 hour bus ride to get to them (one way). The 2 day jaunt was kamikaze like for us but check our pics (Soon to be posted, keep checking) and we’re sure you too will be in awe at the elaborate designs on the desert canvas.
June 20, 2009: Bye Bye Ecuador, Hello Peru
Parasitic Stomach Infection – Check.
Now that those two are out of the way, we’re certainly hoping that we don’t have any other such types of adventures. It’s also funny that of the 2 times that Andrew has gone river rafting, something has happened to him each time.
June 18-19, 2009 – Horseback Riding and then Oh Oh
The day started beautiful enough with the clouds going away just in time for a sunny day of horseback riding. Our horses galloped during certain stretches and Andrew and I realized that it’s actually quite painful when they go faster than a trot.
After that, Andrew had an ingenious idea of renting a road buggy to go up to the Bellavista viewpoint. The viewpoint is actually off limits for buggies but we figured if the road was paved and the gas was on full tank, why not??? Well, the reason is because buggies have small engines and the road up is actually quite steep. The buggy was revving at 8000 rpm and lemme tell you, we were definitely scared for portions at a time. But of course, we made it up, took some quick pics, and then had a blast during the downhill portion.
I got a hot stone massage for $25 after that and while I was relaxing, Andrew’s stomach was doing anything but. However, we had found a Kingdom Hall that had their meeting that day and there was no way we were missing that. We came in to the Banos Spanish Congregation where we were promptly greeted by everyone. Andrew had been practicing our Spanish the whole day and it came in pretty handy for the 20 minutes that we were there. Yup you read right, 20 minutes. Shortly after the meeting started, we had to leave because Andrew threw up in the bathroom and was feeling really awful. The person we sat next to tried to help us go to a doctor but the md office was kinda far and so we settled for just trying to make it back to the hotel.
At the hotel, Andrew threw up several times and despite the heat and humidity, wore his Hot Chillys because of the chills. Thankfully, a doctor was able to make a house call for only $35. The MD diagnosed Andrew with a parasitic stomach infection and told us that our already bad night was only going to get worse. Basically, in addition to the chills which were replaced with the fever, headache, nausea, restless feet and everything else, I now had to help Andrew get to the bathroom fast enough for his diarrhea. So, I went downstairs and got more diarrhea/vomit paper and prepared myself for what was to become a very long and sleepless night.
Another thing we had to worry about was our bus ride back to Quito on the 19th. The MD had told us that Andrew was on the verge of a full blown infection (read: diarrhea-MAJOR) so we were definitely concerned about our bus ride back to Quito. We couldn’t postpone the bus ride, the buses didn’t have bathrooms, and they don’t stop along the way. So the question was: Paper or Plastic?
The answer was neither (although I armed myself with both, plus facemask, gloves and sanitizer) as we had a well equipped pharmacy in our luggages. The parasites that Andrew most likely got from screaming “AAHH” during the class 4 rapids from rafting were no match for our US strength antibiotics which promptly started killing the parasites infecting Andrew’s stomach.
We arrived safely at the Swissotel where my delight was doubled at being upgraded to a suite that had TWO bathrooms; one of which Andrew used promptly upon entering.
After a nice dinner with Andrew’s coworker and daughter who kindly brought our replacement gear (read June 4), we were finally ready for country #3: Peru.
June 17, 2009: Banos River Rafting
We went river rafting today on the Pastaza River (class 3 & 4) in Banos and it was only ok. The waters were great and the greenery of our surroundings were amazing but it didn’t live up to expectations. Andrew and I agreed that the rafting at the Pacuare River in Costa Rica was definitely a lot more fun.
Also, about 2 weeks ago, we read in the newspaper that a tourist died river rafting in this same stretch of river. Andrew didn’t tell me till after the rafting but the accident happened with this same company, Rainforesture. Anyhow, in the morning while we were being outfitted with wet suits and shoes, I asked the guides what kind of safety nets they had in place considering that someone had just died rafting. They immediately denied that anything had ever happened and then walked away. It was pretty sketchy because when I did my research the other companies I spoke to had a pretty good response.
However, since this was the only company that was still doing a full day of rafting, and I really wanted a full day going thru at least class 4 rapids, we decided to go ahead with the company. The trip itself was nothing to it and we did feel they did a good job to make sure that things were safe.
Anyhow at the end of the trip when we got back to the office, the same guide who scoffed at our concerns came out with the boss and they both admitted that they knew of the incident and that it was with their company and that in 20 years nothing had ever happened. Now with the news spreading, it was affecting their company and they asked us what should they do and how should they respond – pretty huge turnaround. Anyhow that’s about it. Tomorrow, we go horseback riding to see some lava flows from volcan Tungurahua. We saw the volcano earlier with smoke coming out from the tip. Hope it’ll be fun and we get to gallop.
